We know people have enjoyed cheese for thousands of years. Cheesy residue left in clay pots shows us that ancient Egyptians made cheese. The Bible tells us David’s dad asked him to carry 10 cheeses to the battlefield. (1 Samuel 17:18) What we don’t know is how people first made cheese. Was it an accident? Maybe milk was stored in a sheep stomach. Sheep stomachs contain rennet—the enzyme that turns milk into cheese. Or maybe someone sprinkled some salt or fruit juice in milk and noticed the milk curdling. In any case, the first cheesemaker invented a genius way to keep milk from going to waste.

The Romans were the first to manufacture huge amounts of cheese. They made hundreds of kinds, and their armies carried the cheeses as they marched through Europe. Roman cheese making spread. But it always mixed with local ways of making cheese. Everyone had their own style: Soft or hard? Yellow or white? Holey or solid? Some cheeses were moldy, some melty, some spreadable, and some sliceable. No two tasted the same. And so we came to have English Cheddar, Dutch Gouda, Swiss Gruyère, Spanish Manchego, French Camembert, Italian Parmigiano, Indian Paneer, Mongolian Byaslag, and many thousands more varieties. What makes the difference between types? Cheeses vary depending on how much moisture they have, what molds and bacteria are added to them, and how long they age. Ancient processes of cutting, heating, stirring, and pressing cheese curds also determine the final product.

For serious cheesemakers in each country, cheese is big business. But it’s also personal. When a food is tied to a certain place—especially an old one—people tend to believe it’s the real deal and the best quality. Like the Cypriots, cheesemakers from all around the world will defend their products: It’s ours. Don’t pretend it’s yours!