A culinary treasure grows in the woodlands of Italy and Croatia. But will hot, dry seasons make that treasure scarcer than ever?
Tino Marolo follows his dog through the darkness. A flashlight beam guides his way. The pair searches the hills near Alba, Italy. They’re searching for one of the most prized fungi in the food world: white truffles.
Chefs value truffles for their complex flavors. All truffles are somewhat rare, but white truffles are especially rare. Even in good seasons, they grow only during a few months of the year. They mostly come from the woods in and around Italy. A pound of white truffles can sell for over $4,000 dollars.
These fungi grow by attaching to tree roots. They depend on cool, loose, moist soil. But recent years have brought drought and heat.
Peter Alebic hunts for truffles in Croatia. He says the weather conditions have made truffles harder to find. When he does find truffles, they’re often smaller than usual. The rarity has made them even more valuable at market. “Each year for the past seven or eight years has been worse than the last,” he says.
But in Italy, Mr. Marolo points out that truffle hunting has always posed a challenge.
“You certainly come home empty-handed more often than you do with a truffle,” he says. “It’s really the thrill of saying: I don’t know what I’m going to find.”
Most diners don’t eat white truffle often—if ever. If truffles vanished, most dinner plates wouldn’t look much different. But for folks in truffle-hunting regions, these fungi help support a way of life. Alba even hosts the International White Truffle Fair. Fungus fans visit from around the world.
Despite recent struggles, truffle experts have hope. Researchers find ways to help truffle habitats adapt. They experiment with man-made irrigation to help forests during droughts.
“I don’t think we’re facing extinction; we’re facing a challenge,” says Antonio Degiacomi. He is president of Italy’s National Centre for Truffle Studies. “We’re trying to do what nature does, and do it artificially.”
Alba’s Truffle Fair now includes teaching about forest conservation. Researchers also look for trees that can better survive warm, dry weather.
Where the world sees doom and gloom, God can restore. He brings new life to dry ground. That’s good news for more than truffles. That’s good news for us. He gives new life to thirsty souls!
For I will pour water on the thirsty land, and streams on the dry ground; I will pour my Spirit upon your offspring, and my blessing on your descendants. — Isaiah 44:3
